Tee5s Clothing Store – Ms. Marvel new jersey avengercon groot mr.tree shirt

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The fashion system loves an easy, obvious, almost thoughtless statement—“This collection is inspired by my trip to [insert remote gorgeous locale here].” Oliver’s work evades simple explanations. He’s bringing fashion, music, culture, performance, and art together, layered with experimentation and realized with the help of a vast community network. Hood by Air was more comprehensible as one thing: The industry called it streetwear. With his eponymous project, adjacent to Hood by Air’s current collection, Oliver’s Wench and Leech musical endeavors, and Anonymous Club’s community approach, the designer is doing it all—and all at once. Backstage after the presentation, he seemed calm, proud, and at ease, starting with the clothes. The black looks that opened the show, dripping in crystals and cut to reveal all the strangest, most sensuous parts of the body, are his Black Toiles. Twelve in all, the looks are based on his first Shayne Oliver collection—to be fully debuted at a later date—and included collaborations with Telfar Clemens, Ugg, and artist Benjamin Langford, whose floral illustrations were cut and draped into gowns. Each black look corresponds to a song Oliver has written as a part of his Wench musical project with Arca, the Venezuelan musician born Alejandra Ghersi Rodríguez. Their new album will be released soon, and in their shared vision, each runway look corresponds to a single and will be the cover art for that track. The flowers that closed the show, Oliver said, “are a bouquet—and that’s what Alejandra and I have been working toward, these songs that are considered bouquets, our offerings.” He went on to describe the multimedia event, with a finale performance by Eartheater, as “a music video.”

Ms. Marvel new jersey avengercon groot mr.tree shirt

How will life go on after COVID? Good bar hangs? All-night dancing fests? Silent reflection? The rising stars of menswear’s new scene will take you there—wherever there is. The last time Shayne Oliver held a fashion show in New York, it was set to sounds of orgasms and sponsored by Pornhub. A lot has changed since 2017, when he put Hood by Air on hiatus, but the constant in Oliver’s work is his ability to electrify and challenge the fashion system. And, boy, did he ever do that with a performance of new music with Arca and a presentation of new clothing at The Shed last night. How to explain exactly what we saw over smoke, scaffolding, and a sculpture of Oliver melting into a platform? Having followed his work since the mid-2010s, I am sure that the best part of his oeuvre is that it cannot be easily defined or digested. In the immediate minutes following the show, as fashion people, art- world glitterati, celebrities like Hunter Schafer and Evan Mock, and former HBA collaborators Luar’s Raul Lopez and Gypsy Sport’s Rio Uribe took the long escalator journey down to the street, several people texted me about what they had seen: “genius,” “arresting,” “disrespectful,” “too long,” “arduous,” and “WOW!” No uniform consensus congealed—and 12 hours later I’m still rehashing the models’ dripping clothing and Pat McGrath’s incredible floral makeup in my head.

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But what about those of us who aren’t feeling so optimistic? Or at least who yearn for a more tender connection? Los Angeles–based designer Drew Curry’s label Airei is seeking peace. The so-serene-he-could-only-be-from-L.A. designer has garnered a cult following among the likes of Kendrick Lamar and Billie Eilish for his spacey knitwear, but as a creative he shies away from the flash of celebrity. His debut event at Paris Fashion Week was more meditative art practice than Champagne-coupes-clinking fashion shindig. Inside Dover Street Market’s 35-37 space—Airei is part of the Dover Street Market Paris enterprise—Curry created an installation of his fall 2022 collection within a wooden frame that was covered in thousands of white threads. For two hours, he painstakingly and slowly walked around the display, cutting the threads one at a time. The clothes themselves took the idea of hanging on by a thread even more literally: Many garments were doubled and sewn at the cuffs so that they could be worn as a single sweater or unfurled and worn by two people holding hands. Another hoodie was stitched closed by the same white threads—“to wear the piece, you have to cut it up, cut it open,” Curry said. He titled the performance The Case for a Tragic Optimism.

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