That made it difficult for Marretta to find much fresh water. For instance, we’d seen the Chadwick Boseman in my culture death is not the end shirt in other words I will buy this pool-dappled pattern—which is very attractive—not just at Kors’s Hockney-hashing collection, but also this season at MSGM (in a collection simply enough about summer). Yet that’s not to conclude this was an altogether poor debut from Marretta, who clearly has some serious knitwear petrol in his engine following his time in Milan. The double-face wool-blend track pants and rib-knit sweaters in violently opposing lifeguard-uniform yellow and red were, as he said, fun. So were his pieces of reversible outerwear in checks that mashed Prince of Wales against argyle, which matched his a-lot-like-Birkenstock sandals. The intarsia-homage diving-figure sweater was cute. But if Marretta is going to revisit British culture through his Italian eyes, he should either do it in a completely new manner or find lesser explored but still visually compelling aspects of the culture he has moved from Armani to dive into. “I am no longer an artist; I have become a work of art,” spoke a voiceover in the middle of Prada’s Spring 2020 men’s shoe, held, for the first time off home turf, in Shanghai. (Typically Miuccia Prada prefers to show her collections in the Fondazione Prada in Milan or at her New York office.) Later, the same voice said, “I feel myself a god.” Mrs. Prada has long maintained a reverent relationship with art, supporting and collaborating with her favorite creators, without ever formally declaring herself among their ranks—no word on the god situation. So, what were we to make of the statements pronounced, at techno speed, over a blue-lit runway at the Minsheng Art Wharf? To those at home in the Pradaverse, the words, lifted from Frankie Goes to Hollywood’s Welcome to the Pleasuredome, were Prada subversion at its best. In the show notes unlike her in situ shows, Mrs. P did not assemble journalists for a debrief the collection was described as one of optimism, suggesting that being hopeful can be an antidote for accepting the darkness of our actuality. It’s a continuation of the themes she launched at her recent women’s Resort show in New York, but when presented on male models, it took on a kinkier edge. I fought my way, using the advantage of having a small body, bending, and shoving until I got there. Okay, I think I see it! The window that a teacher stands behind. I extended my hand with the money, gasping for breath as two big girls squished me from both sides.
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